The Chinese dominated the silk trade for a long time by trading processed yarn but never sharing silkworms or eggs with the outside world. The monopoly broke around 6th century CE when silkworm eggs were smuggled out of China. It was not until another 1,200 years later that Bengaluru began its journey towards becoming an important centre for organised silk trade.Captivated by the magic of silk fabrics, rulers Tipu Sultan, to the Wodeyars and JN Tata undertook a series of initiatives to boost local production of the yarn — in the 1700s, Tipu had sent delegations to Bengal to fetch silkworms; JN Tata set up a training centre in Bengaluru in 1896, and Krishnaraja Wadiyar standardised silk production in the 1900s. “JN Tata played a crucial role by setting up a silk training farm in Bengaluru, supported by the progressive Mysore administration. By the early 20th century, Mysuru was rapidly industrialising, aided by early electrification driven by Kolar Gold Fields, and silk production adopted power looms rather than handlooms, contrary to popular belief,” said Roopa Pai, a city-based author and historian.Kempegowda’s original pete area, where streets were organised by trades of commodities like rice, salt, cotton etc, made space for a ‘pattunool pete’ (silk yarn market), reflecting the long-standing presence of silk merchants.As Bengaluru’s silk trade expanded, it gave rise to establishments like Vijaylakshmi Silks, which was set up in the 1920s by Devatha Adappa Venkata Ratnam Setty, a Kolar native from a sericulture family who moved to the city to tap into the growing market. A two-day exhibition showcasing 105 archival and signature sari designs was organised as part of its centenary at Sabha Blr, off Kamaraj Road.Opening the collections, Mysuru royal family member Kamakshi Devi Wodeyar has recalled the royal family’s association with Mysore silk. “One of my childhood memories is the Mysore Silk Factory (which became KSIC Silk Weaving Factory after Independence) sending silk sarees and panches (pyjamas) for the family,” she said. A copy of her trousseau is also on display.Her grand-uncle Krishnaraja Wadiyar was instrumental in importing power looms from Switzerland that scaled the production of high quality Mysore silk.Bengaluru now comfortably sits at the centre of silk trade. “Ramanagara, about 40km away, is now Asia’s largest silk cocoon market, Sidlaghatta in the north the second largest, and Kolar and Chintamani are emerging as major sericulture centres, while the Central Silk Board’s genetic resource centre nearby supports research and breeding,” said Roopa.
